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I do use one for some occasions however. I have 1 of every kind of collar. I use a 2 foot lead now and he learned to heel. Martingale collars are good to for correcting. Just place it high up on the neck. be carefull your dog doesn't chokeout on it.
she's obviously way in front of you. Do an abrupt "about turn" to go in the opposite direction. She'll be like...what the heck happened?? When she's next to you give her a treat. Repeat, repeat, repeat. She'll get the hint that if she's not right next to you, paying attention to you & your body language, she gets a good jolt & no treat.
You won't get anywhere walking for a while but it will be worth it in the long run.
IMO, they promote pulling. I prefer collar/lead and teach my dogs to heel. You have more control.
If you use a harness or even a collar, you need to hold the lead so they have no choice but to walk right beside you. Sometimes bringing a toy and holding it down at your side will help teach them to heel cuz they want the toy and will stay close to try and get it.
I also use 4ft lead rather than 6ft cuz there is less room for them to get ahead. Or you get a lead that has a double handle-one towards the bottom so you can keep them close to your leg.
Submitted by Anonymous on March 7, 2007 - 12:39pm.
by Kathy Diamond Davis Author and Trainer
It took me 10 years and a terribly wild dog to really "get it" about loose-lead walking, so hopefully you can learn from my mistakes and avoid a lot of hassles for yourself and the dog. Teaching dogs to walk on a loose leash at all times has almost been a dog-trainer's secret, because it's somewhat difficult to adequately teach in an obedience class situation. But it's really not so hard, and your slip collar should give plenty of control after you've done this program for just one to two weeks. I know you don't believe that--I didn't, either!
Okay, here's the secret. Start for a walk with your dog, but forget about getting anywhere this time, and for the next week or so. Instead, keep your attention on whether or not the leash is tight. Do not wait for the dog to pull on the leash, because then both you and the dog will be confused by when lead tension turns into pulling--the distinction is just too hard to consistently recognize. Instead, make your criteria a loose leash.
Check the position of your arm that is holding the leash. Good control means your arm is bent, your elbow is in toward your body. A handler with the arm holding the leash stretched out as he or she walks along has far less control. With your arm bent, you also have the ability to briefly stretch out your arm as you make the maneuver I'm about to describe, giving you a moment of slack in the leash.
Okay, you step out the door and whoops, the leash goes tight. Our natural reactions are to pull or jerk back on the dog, to hold on uncomfortably as we go toward our destination, or even to go faster, letting the dog set the pace. Do not allow yourself to do of these things! Instead, choose one of three things to do. You can stop, abruptly change direction, or back up.
For puppies and soft dogs, stopping may be enough. For you and your dog, a large dog with an established habit of pulling, changing direction will probably work best. Backing up is a nice touch later on, when you and the dog have a lot of training, just to keep it interesting. All of these maneuvers tell the dog, "Oops, if I pull, I get there slower, not faster!"
Remember, your arm's normal position when holding the leash is bent. The leash has now gone tight. Quick (you want this to be a surprise to your dog!), straighten your arm to create an instant's slack in the leash, as you turn and take off in another direction, usually either to your right or back in the direction you came. The dog may feel a quick pop on the leash, but at the same time will realize that "Whoops, I missed a turn, I better catch up!"
Within one to two weeks, your dog will expect the leash to remain loose, because you will have reacted every time it goes tight. You see, we are the ones who teach the dogs to walk on a tight leash and to pull us! Pulling back on the leash creates a natural response in the dog to pull forward. Letting the dog cause us to go faster makes the dog think "Oh, this is the way to get where I want to go! I should pull!" And just letting the leash remain tight as we walk along is constantly telling the dog we want a tight leash, that a tight leash is normal. Jerking back on the leash may work to stop some dogs from pulling, but it is not a clear message to the dog, and will be perceived by some dogs as unfair and upsetting, to the extent that those dogs will become terribly confused.
See, all you have to do is be unpredictable, so your dog has to keep an eye on you to keep pace! The loose leash also causes your dog to pay more attention to you at all times. It keeps you and the dog from becoming dependent on messages through the leash, which are definitely second-best to messages coming from your body and voice. A loose leash makes all training more effective and more humane. The slip collar will give plenty of control with a dog and handler trained to a loose leash. Some dogs will do fine on a buckle collar, but a slip collar can be a good precaution against a buckle collar sliding over the dog's head in an emergency such as another dog attacking it. When kept loose, a slip collar is not obstructing the dog's breathing or causing other problems.
Though a well-trained dog becomes very sophisticated about keeping the leash loose, you will always need to remember to react to a tight leash with your changes of direction, lifelong. Anyone who just walks along with even a well-trained dog keeping the leash tight is telling the dog a tight leash is wanted, and it is important never to give this message. The reason dogs can learn to work on a tight leash in one to two weeks is that it really wasn't a dog problem in the first place. Once we learn how to handle the leash correctly, the dog is happy--and more comfortable!--to cooperate. Puppies can learn this skill right after they learn to walk on a leash. But it takes us humans longer--took me 10 years!
Submitted by Anonymous on March 7, 2007 - 12:14pm.
We had the same problem with Winston and YES they are strong. His training has helped tremendously along with giving him extra exercise. Winston use to pull so hard he would throw up everywhere we went
Submitted by Anonymous on March 7, 2007 - 12:10pm.
We do 10-15 minute sessions each night with Onslow just to review his commands (sit, stay, give paw, speak, lay etc.,) It also helps to train with their favorite treat, and only use that treat for training. Once the commands are down - she shouldn't pull you anymore.
Submitted by kebrina (not verified) on March 7, 2007 - 12:05pm.
When Daisy did that we went through a refresher course of sit and stay whenever she pulled. a few days of that and she quit when i would tug back on her leash a bit.
I agree that harness's promote pulling
I do use one for some occasions however. I have 1 of every kind of collar. I use a 2 foot lead now and he learned to heel. Martingale collars are good to for correcting. Just place it high up on the neck. be carefull your dog doesn't chokeout on it.
When she's pulling....
she's obviously way in front of you. Do an abrupt "about turn" to go in the opposite direction. She'll be like...what the heck happened?? When she's next to you give her a treat. Repeat, repeat, repeat. She'll get the hint that if she's not right next to you, paying attention to you & your body language, she gets a good jolt & no treat.
You won't get anywhere walking for a while but it will be worth it in the long run.
Sue
Thanks
I will definately try all of your suggestions.
harnesses
IMO, they promote pulling. I prefer collar/lead and teach my dogs to heel. You have more control.
If you use a harness or even a collar, you need to hold the lead so they have no choice but to walk right beside you. Sometimes bringing a toy and holding it down at your side will help teach them to heel cuz they want the toy and will stay close to try and get it.
I also use 4ft lead rather than 6ft cuz there is less room for them to get ahead. Or you get a lead that has a double handle-one towards the bottom so you can keep them close to your leg.
Sue
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bulliemommy/
http://www.geocities.com/lifewithsumo/
http://www.dropshots.com/snieves (videos)
Leash Training
by Kathy Diamond Davis
Author and Trainer
It took me 10 years and a terribly wild dog to really "get it" about loose-lead walking, so hopefully you can learn from my mistakes and avoid a lot of hassles for yourself and the dog. Teaching dogs to walk on a loose leash at all times has almost been a dog-trainer's secret, because it's somewhat difficult to adequately teach in an obedience class situation. But it's really not so hard, and your slip collar should give plenty of control after you've done this program for just one to two weeks. I know you don't believe that--I didn't, either!
Okay, here's the secret. Start for a walk with your dog, but forget about getting anywhere this time, and for the next week or so. Instead, keep your attention on whether or not the leash is tight. Do not wait for the dog to pull on the leash, because then both you and the dog will be confused by when lead tension turns into pulling--the distinction is just too hard to consistently recognize. Instead, make your criteria a loose leash.
Check the position of your arm that is holding the leash. Good control means your arm is bent, your elbow is in toward your body. A handler with the arm holding the leash stretched out as he or she walks along has far less control. With your arm bent, you also have the ability to briefly stretch out your arm as you make the maneuver I'm about to describe, giving you a moment of slack in the leash.
Okay, you step out the door and whoops, the leash goes tight. Our natural reactions are to pull or jerk back on the dog, to hold on uncomfortably as we go toward our destination, or even to go faster, letting the dog set the pace. Do not allow yourself to do of these things! Instead, choose one of three things to do. You can stop, abruptly change direction, or back up.
For puppies and soft dogs, stopping may be enough. For you and your dog, a large dog with an established habit of pulling, changing direction will probably work best. Backing up is a nice touch later on, when you and the dog have a lot of training, just to keep it interesting. All of these maneuvers tell the dog, "Oops, if I pull, I get there slower, not faster!"
Remember, your arm's normal position when holding the leash is bent. The leash has now gone tight. Quick (you want this to be a surprise to your dog!), straighten your arm to create an instant's slack in the leash, as you turn and take off in another direction, usually either to your right or back in the direction you came. The dog may feel a quick pop on the leash, but at the same time will realize that "Whoops, I missed a turn, I better catch up!"
Within one to two weeks, your dog will expect the leash to remain loose, because you will have reacted every time it goes tight. You see, we are the ones who teach the dogs to walk on a tight leash and to pull us! Pulling back on the leash creates a natural response in the dog to pull forward. Letting the dog cause us to go faster makes the dog think "Oh, this is the way to get where I want to go! I should pull!" And just letting the leash remain tight as we walk along is constantly telling the dog we want a tight leash, that a tight leash is normal. Jerking back on the leash may work to stop some dogs from pulling, but it is not a clear message to the dog, and will be perceived by some dogs as unfair and upsetting, to the extent that those dogs will become terribly confused.
See, all you have to do is be unpredictable, so your dog has to keep an eye on you to keep pace! The loose leash also causes your dog to pay more attention to you at all times. It keeps you and the dog from becoming dependent on messages through the leash, which are definitely second-best to messages coming from your body and voice. A loose leash makes all training more effective and more humane. The slip collar will give plenty of control with a dog and handler trained to a loose leash. Some dogs will do fine on a buckle collar, but a slip collar can be a good precaution against a buckle collar sliding over the dog's head in an emergency such as another dog attacking it. When kept loose, a slip collar is not obstructing the dog's breathing or causing other problems.
Though a well-trained dog becomes very sophisticated about keeping the leash loose, you will always need to remember to react to a tight leash with your changes of direction, lifelong. Anyone who just walks along with even a well-trained dog keeping the leash tight is telling the dog a tight leash is wanted, and it is important never to give this message. The reason dogs can learn to work on a tight leash in one to two weeks is that it really wasn't a dog problem in the first place. Once we learn how to handle the leash correctly, the dog is happy--and more comfortable!--to cooperate. Puppies can learn this skill right after they learn to walk on a leash. But it takes us humans longer--took me 10 years!
So now you know the secret! I wish you many miles of happy walks--with occasional right turns, about-turns and other surprises to keep both you and the dog having a great time.
http://www.veterinarypartner.com/Content.plx?P=A&S=0&C=0&A=877
I'll agree with above posts...Training
We had the same problem with Winston and YES they are strong. His training has helped tremendously along with giving him extra exercise. Winston use to pull so hard he would throw up everywhere we went
Do you do short training sessions with her?
We do 10-15 minute sessions each night with Onslow just to review his commands (sit, stay, give paw, speak, lay etc.,) It also helps to train with their favorite treat, and only use that treat for training. Once the commands are down - she shouldn't pull you anymore.
training
When Daisy did that we went through a refresher course of sit and stay whenever she pulled. a few days of that and she quit when i would tug back on her leash a bit.