Bella was on it, the vet said she might eat more, and drink more which she did. she had a few accidents in the house with all the water she drank. but it did help her
but she looked very buzzed for the first few days..after that she was fine.

glad to hear that you have chester
sounds like he had a pretty crappy past life before you

will keep him in my thoughts
and Lily too

http://www.network54.com/Forum/42436/message/1268579080/JUST+a+general+thread+when+a+VET+is+required...emergency+situations...

For minor stuff I use Adobe vet hospital, it is excellent clinic and nearby. Expensive, much more expensive than dr. Sweet. Lily is treated there for her CHF and I do not intend to take her anywhere else as she freaks out going to the vet and she is somehow getting used to getting all her treatments there.
But now we drive with Chester to UC. Davis. This is his major treatment area. He had MRI, spinal tap, X-rays, all tests, you name it done there. He may have to get scoped there. He is due for neurology re-check there on March 22. (He started to get seizures so he spent a night at Adobe hospital and we determined he needs to see specialists so we took him to the best, UC Davis, he was seen by everyone, literally). My boy has a bit more fluid in his brain (well, I am still waiting for full write up from neurological assessment, but I assume they may give it to me after our visit). I am not sure if it is more fluid compared to "other dogs" or compared to "other bulldogs" so I need to get that verified.
I ] just need to know what the treatment is and if it is necessary. He is still treated by the vet from UC Davis for his anemia, they did say he is enigma and a challenge but I am very impressed with UC Davis.
We spent two days there, I slept with him in a hotel after they told me on the first day he may have brain tumor...I just could not leave him for the night in the hospital, I had to have him with me, so I promised to bring him back early in the morning for MRI. Most of hotels there will take dogs, so nice...
Chester just charmed everyone, he is so cute, you have no idea what good food and calm living does to a dog...even sick, he just melts hearts.

I plan on just linking this thread to my favourites menu
in case I need to know this info in the future
hopefully others will add things along the way too to this info

keep thinking of him all the time
lets hope they get to the bottom of this soon
goodluck at the next appointment too
poor Lily..
really feel for you with 2 sick bullies..

we have a follow up neurological appointment at UC Davis on March 22. So far no seizures, he is doing oK, just a bit weak. No improvement in anemia though...I am worried we will have to scope him to see what is inside him, if anything...or again, treat it as autoimmune, which means, putting him back on very strong medications. I am feeling so bad for my baby...
And Lily just had 2 liters of fluid drained from her last Thursday (read, relief for her and for my wallet, LOL). But she breathes better, and that is hat matters. She is my heart, my baby my best buddy, my first bully and the smartest to boot so I will do anything I can to keep both of them in top shape.
Hugs.

good to have in my brain. You never know! I keep saying I'm going to take a pet CPR class, but I haven't gotten around to it yet.


I don't rescue animals because I want to feel better about myself, or morally superior to anyone. The best part of my life with animals is the humility they teach and the humanity the foster.
Jon Katz "Soul of a Dog"

I drive all the way up to Sweet for major stuff. I've used Dr Barney for little things, and I use Bishop Ranch for emergencies.


I don't rescue animals because I want to feel better about myself, or morally superior to anyone. The best part of my life with animals is the humility they teach and the humanity the foster.
Jon Katz "Soul of a Dog"

a little girl was out for coffee with her dad when she started choking..she was gagging and turning blue. did the manover and she was ok. scared the crap out of me..but I settled down afterwards. the father was really glad that I was there for her.
you just never know when you might need this manover.
can see it being important for a dog..

that is what happened to my pug too
excellent one

thanks ...for compliment
it has taken a bit of time to find all this..lol
will add more as I think of it
hope others add them too..

went to the vet because dog was acting lethargic and had pale gums. Turned out to be pneumonia.


I don't rescue animals because I want to feel better about myself, or morally superior to anyone. The best part of my life with animals is the humility they teach and the humanity the foster.
Jon Katz "Soul of a Dog"

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nmNl9X50jxk

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0AFrUiRIeVo

these are just the emegency cases..
and what to do in the meantime before you get the vet..
right now looking for CPR..lol

How to Induce Vomiting in Dogs
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By Lisa Parris, eHow Contributing Writer
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There are dogs that are very fussy about what they eat. Then there are dogs that eat everything that they can get their paws on. Either one is likely to occasionally eat something they shouldn't. It could be something that makes no sense, like a bag of cat litter, or something they love but that just isn't good for them, like chocolate. If your dog has eaten something bad, don't panic. Follow the steps in this guide and he will feel better in no time.
Difficulty: Moderately EasyInstructionsThings You'll Need:
Burnt toast
Hydrogen peroxide, 3 percent
Eye dropper or medicine syringe
Step 1Call (888) 426-4435. This is the number for the Animal Poison Control Center. Animal health specialists will help you determine whether or not inducing vomiting will help your dog. Alternatively, call your veterinarian.

Step 2Identify the material the dog has ingested. Generally, inducing vomiting will be recommended if the dog has eaten toxic plants, toxic foods, medications or anti-freeze, within the last two hours and is still conscious, has not had seizures and is breathing easily. It will buy you enough time to get safely to the vet while reducing the quantity of toxic material working its way through your dog's system.

Step 3Feed the dog a piece of burnt toast. It is will help to absorb the toxins and make the induction process easier by putting fresh food in the stomach. If the dog seems reluctant to eat the toast, spread some peanut butter on it.

Step 4Wait five minutes. Make a rough estimate of your dog's weight. For every 10 lbs. of body weight, give the dog 1 tsp. of 3 percent hydrogen peroxide. If the dog seems reluctant to take the peroxide, use an eyedropper or syringe and place the fluid on the back of the tongue, then tilt the dog's head upward slightly and stroke the throat to encourage swallowing.

Step 5Wait 10 minutes. Encourage the dog to walk around or gently agitate the dog's stomach to combine the peroxide and the contents of the stomach. If the procedure was unsuccessful, repeat Step 4. If no vomiting occurs 10 minutes after the second dose, the dog may need a stronger inducer.

Step 6Take the dog to the veterinarian's office. Even if the procedure was successful, inducing vomiting only removes about half of the toxins. The dog may still need professional care, depending on the type and quantity of toxic material originally ingested.

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my dogs are almost always emergency. Now let me explain...I do believe that bulldogs have such high threshold of pain that when they finally show something, it is time to react VERY fast. I prefer sooner.
I do not have children so I do have luxury living and breathing around them. I do work, a lot, but both my husband and I watch them intently and spend every work free minute with them so we know when something is not quite right with them so I do not lightly misinterpret signs (still learning that with Chester as he is rescue).
I am lucky to have established a relationship with a vet technician at our vet hospital who has a bulldog herself and who will find me an appointment with her very thorough vet I like any day that she works. She also gave me a list of good-with-bulldogs vets for when my vet is off (way too much for my taste, LOL...does she really need weekends off when she could retire early after tending to my dogs, LOL?)
But I will be honest, I do not know how this would play out if I had a couple of kids and more restricted financial situation, further drive to the vet...perhaps I would be more selective of situation...
Right now my "million dollar babies" as I call them, are in good hands, and I would not have it any other way. It just means that that new Restoration Hardware leather sofa I was pining for will have to wait, LOL.
I do want to command you for sharing all this information, I think it is so important, as not everyone has an easy access to vet or, in these tough economic times, some may have to consider rethinking hasty trips to the vet. This is great idea and I applaud you all for all this sharing.
I wish none of us ever had to use emergency visits with our babies
Kisses and hugs to all your bullies, especially those who are sick or recovering...

LIMB INJURIES
FRACTURES
Fractures are broken bones. Normally the break is complete but in the young animal the bone may only be cracked or bent. This is called a greenstick fracture and is extremely painful, often more painful than a complete break. The most common cause of fractures is direct force, and in our domestic animals this is usually due to being hit by an automobile (car, truck, train and in Melbourne the rare tram). Other causes are falls, being dropped (or thrown), being stepped on or kicked and getting the leg caught while the body is still in motion. All fractures need veterinary attention.

SYMPTOMS AND SIGNS
The animal will not be able to use the leg at all and if able will hold the leg up. Sometimes the foot will be rested on the ground when the animal is standing at rest.


Pain at or near the fracture site and some animals will not allow the limb to be handled at all.


The limb may appear deformed, twisted or shortened.


Swelling around the break. Sometimes it is possible to see bruising if the hair is parted.


A coarse grating may occur if the bone fragments move against the other. However don't actively seek this sign.


Shock. This is due to pain and/or blood loss. Severe blood loss can result from femoral or pelvic fractures.
Fractures may be closed, where the skin is unbroken, or open, where a wound leads to the fracture or the bone may be exposed. Open fractures are generally more serious as infection may result and more care is required for successful healing.

MANAGEMENT
Control bleeding.


Keep the animal as quiet as possible. Cats and small dogs can be placed in a box or a basket.


Try to support the leg when moving the animal by resting the leg on a towel or in your hand.


If you are unable to take your pet directly to a veterinarian then you may need to bandage or splint the leg.
Cover all wounds. If the bone is not exposed apply a dry bandage. If the bone is above the skin and will dry out then apply a wet bandage. Be very careful about cleanliness.
Apply a bandage or a splint if your pet will allow you otherwise keep your pet as quiet as possible until you are able to transport him/her. Allow you pet to make itself comfortable rather than force it into a position you think will be comfortable.
HOW TO APPLY A BANDAGE OR A SPLINT FOR A LOWER LIMB
Supporting the fracture helps to prevent pain and swelling. In closed fractures it may prevent the bone penetrating the skin. Bandaging an open fracture helps prevent contamination and prevents the bone from drying out. Only fractures below the elbow and below the stifle (knee) can be easily bandaged. There are two general rules. Lots of padding. And bandage above and below the joints of the affected bone. For instance is the radius (forearm) is broken bandage above the elbow and below the wrist.

The most successful bandage for supporting fractures is the modified Robert Jones. This bandage is fairly easily applied and if applied well can be better than a cast.

Be gentle. If your pet won't tolerate your handling stop now. However if the bone is exposed some type of bandage must be applied if there is a to be a delay in reaching your vet. Be careful not to be bitten and apply a muzzle if necessary.


Cover all wounds.


If the bone is exposed cover the bone with gauze swabs or bandage, torn sheet or a sanitary napkin soaked in sterile saline or home-prepared salty water. Some cling wrap can be used over the wet layer to keep the fluid in this layer.


Salty water is made by adding 1 teaspoon of table salt to 1 pint or 2 cups of water. Boiled water is recommended. Saline used for cleaning contact lens or the Intravenous fluid Sodium Chloride are basically the same thing as salty water but are usually sterile and are excellent for wound cleaning.



Apply a good thick layer of cotton wool. A fluffy towel may work but won't be as easy to apply.


HINT: Unroll a length of the wool and separate it into 2 or 3 layers. Then divide the wool into strips and roll it up again into smaller rolls. It is then much easier to wrap on the leg.



Apply a layer of gauze bandage drawing it firmly over the cotton wool. Torn sheeting could be used.

Apply another layer of cotton wool.




Apply another layer of gauze this time drawing the gauze firmer again. The bandage should be taut enough to make a sound if tapped.



Apply an adhesive layer (Vetwrap or Elastoplast) over the top to hold the bandage in place. Electrical tape and a sock may also work.


If you do not have the equipment for the above bandage you can apply a splint. Rolled newspaper or magazines make good splints. If you use sticks or other hard material either apply a layer of bandage material to the limb first or wrap a towel or cloth over the splint. Attach the splint with torn strips of cloth or gauze. Tape or tie in place.

Front leg - the splint can be applied to the front, back or sides of the leg.

Back leg - the splint should be applied to the outside of the leg.

HOW TO APPLY A SLING ON THE FRONT LEG
Generally it is best not to try and stabilize fractures to the humerus and scapula (the bones above the elbow) but keep your pet quiet and let it find a comfortable position on its own. However if your pet is in severe pain or the leg is so floppy it is getting in the way it is possible to apply a "Velpeau" sling.



Wrap conforming bandage such as gauze loosely around the paw going front to outside to back etc.


Bend the wrist, elbow and shoulder so that the leg is against the chest.



Bring the gauze up over the outside of the shoulder and down behind the opposite leg and back to the starting point.


Apply more layers bringing some of the layers over the front of the wrist to prevent it sliding out of the bandage.

Wrap wide adhesive elastic tape over the gauze layer in a similar manner.


HOW TO APPLY A SLING ON THE BACK LEG
The need to apply a sling to the hind leg for a femoral fracture is very rare in the first aid situation. However for completeness -



Wrap conforming bandage such as gauze loosely around the paw going front to outside to back etc.


Bend the hock, knee and hip so that the leg is against the body.



Bring the gauze up over the outside of the leg and down in front of the opposite leg and back to the starting point.


Apply more layers bringing some of the layers over the point of the hock.


Wrap wide adhesive elastic tape over the gauze layer in a similar manner. Stick the bandage to some of the animal's fur otherwise it will slip.
DISLOCATIONS
Dislocations are less common than fractures in our pets. They occur due to direct force such as being hit by a automobile or when the leg is caught while the body is still in motion. It may not be possible to decide if the limb is fractured or dislocated so if in doubt treat as a fracture. Do not attempt to reduce the dislocation.

SYMPTOMS AND SIGNS
Inability to use the leg.


Pain.


Elbow - the lower leg will be rotated outwards and the elbow joint will be distorted.


Hip - the leg will appear shorter and the foot may appear turned inwards. In slim animals it may be possible to tell that the pelvic area is no longer symmetrical.


Hock - the joint will appear distorted.


Other joints are uncommonly dislocated and may appear distorted.
Do not try to immobilize dislocations above the elbow or knee. For dislocations below this treat as for a fracture.

BRUISES, SPRAINS AND STRAINS
SYMPTOMS AND SIGNS
Weight bearing to non-weight bearing lameness.


Pain.


Swelling.


Bruising and tenderness to touch.
MANAGEMENT
If in doubt treat as a fracture.


Keep your pet quiet and restrict exercise to only going out to the toilet and no more. Do not allow your animal to jump or use stairs.


Seek veterinary advice.


Cold compresses (ice wrapped in cloth) can be applied at the site of the swelling once a diagnosis has been made. Only apply for 20 minutes at a time.
ANTERIOR CRUCIATE RUPTURE
This is an extremely common injury. Some weeks this practice repairs more cruciates than fractures. It is due to the one of the ligaments within the stifle (knee) tearing. It occurs when a dog (it is uncommon in cats) slips usually when it is turning. Rottweilers are prone to this injury as they are a heavy dog with a straight hind leg conformation. Working dogs may rupture their cruciate if they catch their leg jumping a fence and flip over it. It is also a common injury in (human) footballers.

SYMPTOMS AND SIGNS
Initially there may be pain and swelling in the affected stifle. The dog may carry the leg at all times until this initial swelling starts to resolve.


Later the dog may rest the foot of the affected leg on the ground without pressure on the main pad. When walking limited weight will be put on the affected leg and it may be held up at faster gaits.


The lameness may improve over the first week then plateau or start to get worse again.


In some cases a clicking sound is heard while the dog is walking.
MANAGEMENT
Confine your dog and take it out on a leash to use its bowel and bladder.


Avoid stairs and do not allow your pet to jump.
The opposite leg is now taking all the weight normally shared between the hind limbs and rupturing this cruciate as well is unfortunately quite likely.


See your veterinarian.
BROKEN OR BLEEDING NAIL
BROKEN NAIL
If the nail is not bleeding and is causing the dog or cat pain because it is in the way then it needs to be removed. Only remove it yourself it is loose and you feel comfortable doing so.

You may need to have someone help you hold your pet or muzzle your dog. Grasp the broken nail with a pair of pliers and tug. If it does not come away easily then seek veterinary help.

BLEEDING NAIL
This can happen if your dog or cat tears the nail or if you have trimmed the nail too short.

Restrain your pet and elevate the affected limb above the body if possible by rolling your pet onto its back.


Apply a clean cloth against the nail. Cotton wool can be used in this circumstance as the fine fibres aid clotting.


An alternative is to drag the affected nail over a bar of soap to clog the nail and then apply the cloth to the nail.


Apply pressure for at least 5 minutes. Nails tend to bleed for long periods of time. Do not remove the pad until bleeding stops.


Apply a bandage if the nail tends to start bleeding as soon as the pad is removed or your pet is licking the paw excessively.


If bleeding does not stop in 15 minutes transport to your veterinarian. Continued bleeding may indicate a bleeding disorder and your pet may be in serious trouble.

How to Pack a First Aid Kit for Pets

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Keep a first aid kit for your pet accessible at home or in your car when traveling. Gathering the necessary items ahead of time could help save your pet's life in an emergency.
Difficulty: EasyInstructionsThings You'll Need:
Blankets
Masking Tape
Muzzles
Masking Tape
Kaeopectates
Antibacterial Ointments
Cotton Swabs
Eyebrow Tweezers
Gauze
Gauze Pads
Hydrogen Peroxides
Ipecacs
Medicine Droppers
Cotton Swabs
Plastic Storage Containers
Scissors
Scissors
Adhesive Tape
Adhesive Tape
Forceps
Blankets
Step 1Get a durable, waterproof (or at least water-resistant) container that opens and closes easily yet securely. It should be large enough to hold the items mentioned below.

Step 2Include bandage material, such as gauze pads, cotton gauze, adhesive tape and masking tape.

Step 3Keep a bottle of hydrogen peroxide and anti-bacterial ointment or cream in the kit.

Step 4Include diarrhea medication, but seek your veterinarian's approval before use.

Step 5Be sure to pack a pair of scissors, plus tweezers or forceps.

Step 6Add a few eyedroppers for dispensing liquid medication or for cleaning superficial wounds.

Step 7Include syrup of ipecac to induce vomiting in the event your pet is poisoned. If your pet is poisoned, consult your veterinarian before inducing vomiting.

Step 8Find activated charcoal at any health food store. This remedy is good for poisoning or diarrhea and controls flatulence resulting from any stomach or intestinal upset.

Step 9Store blankets in the kit to keep your pet warm in extreme conditions.

Step 10When traveling, call ahead to your destination to see if there are any particular dangers, such as snakes, poisonous plants or extreme heat, that you will need to consider when packing your first aid kit.

Step 11Include the phone numbers of your pet's regular veterinarian and of a nearby emergency veterinary hospital.

thanks Bernita how is Chester??

she was fine when she got her shock...but about a hour later ..she started to break out in welts..but the time I rushed her back to the vet ..her heart had stopped. the vet was able to restart it. it was the worst day of my life. she was fine...but what a scare. all dogs need their rabies vaccine here.so they would vaccinate her and use a medication first at the vets office and she stayed there for awhile after to monitored.
this was truly scary

Anaphylactic Shock in Dogs
Overview and FactsSymptoms and TypesTreatment Options


Anaphylactic Shock in Dogs: An Overview
Anaphylactic shock, or anaphylaxis, refers to a rapidly developing and serious allergic reaction that affects a number of different areas of the body at one time. Anaphylactic shock can occur in most mammals including dogs and people, but the effects and symptoms of anaphylactic shock in dogs differ from the effects and symptoms of anaphylactic shock that other mammals experience.

Read More
Causes of Anaphylactic Shock in Dogs
Anaphylactic shock in dogs occurs when the body overreacts to an allergen of some kind. This allergic reaction can cause devastating consequences to the dogs health, and lead to death, if it is not treated quickly. The causes of anaphylactic shock in dogs are numerous, and it is not understood why some dogs experience this reaction and others do not.

Read More
Symptoms of Anaphylactic Shock in Dogs
Anaphylactic shock can occur in dogs, but due to the way the condition affects dogs their symptoms are vastly different. While the symptoms may differ, anaphylactic shock in dogs is just as much of an emergency situation as in people.

Read More
Treating Anaphylactic Shock in Dogs
Anaphylactic shock in dogs is a medical emergency that must be treated as quickly as possible. In severe cases the condition needs to be treated within a matter of minutes. This type of condition cannot be treated at home- veterinarian medical attention is required.

Read More

How To Recognize A Dog Emergency
For many of us, when our dogs are ill, it is often quite difficult to know whether or not their condition warrants a trip to the emergency room.
In an emergency, the first thing you should know is where to take your dog. Many veterinarians offer 24 hour emergency service. Please make sure to ask your vet if this is a service offered by their practice. If your vet does not offer this service, know where your local veterinary emergency hospital is located.
So how do you know if you are experiencing an emergency? Most veterinarians will tell you that if you feel the situation is urgent to please call the closest emergency clinic and speak to a veterinary staff member. They will assess the situation and in most cases, have you bring your dog or dogs in to be examined. The following are some common emergency situations and ideas for how to handle them.

Acute Abdominal Pain
. If your dog or dogs is showing signs of abdominal pain such as tenderness to the touch, standing with his back arched, or refusing food, you should take him to the closest emergency clinic immediately. Other signs of abdominal distress can include vomiting, crying, shaking and difficulty breathing. These may be signs of Gastric Torsion. This condition can come on suddenly and in most cases affects large, deep chested dogs but any dog or dogs can be affected. This condition must be treated as soon as possible. There are other conditions associated with abdominal pain such as constipation, kidney or liver disease, or even a common stomach ache, but it is important to have tests done to rule out anything serious.
Uncontrollable Bleeding or Bleeding from the Chest
. If your dog or dogs gets a cut, you should apply direct pressure with a clean dry bandage to the wound. The bleeding should stop within ten minutes, after which time, you should make an appointment to see your vet as soon as possible. The vet can only give your dog or dogs stitches within a small window of time. However, if the bleeding does not stop within twenty minutes or the bleeding is from the chest, you should take your dog or dogs to the emergency clinic immediately.
Broken Bones
. If your dog or dogs has been in an accident where you suspect broken bones, first call your regular vet to see if you can get an appointment soon. If not, take your dog or dogs to the emergency clinic. They will need to take x-rays to determine whether or not bones have been broken.
Breathing Difficulties
. If your dog or dogs is having breathing difficulties, take them to the closest emergency hospital immediately. There are many reasons why your dog or dogs could be having breathing problems and many of them are serious.
Car Accidents
. If your dog or dogs is hit by a car, it is important to take him to the closest emergency clinic immediately. Even if he is acting normal, he may have internal injuries that need to be taken care of quickly. Wrap your dog or dogs in a blanket to help prevent shock, and keep away from his mouth as many dogs that are in pain will bite (even if they never have before).
Continuous Convulsions
. If your dog or dogs has a minor seizure or two, it is a serious problem and you should call your veterinarian at once. However, if your dog or dogs has a series of convulsions that last for more than a few minutes, you should place a blanket over your dog, keep away from his mouth and get him to the nearest emergency clinic immediately. There are several reasons why your dog or dogs could be having convulsions including epilepsy, metabolic problems, brain tumors, and poisoning and fits of seizures are considered to be life threatening in many cases.In any serious situation, if you feel that your dog or dogs should be seen by a veterinarian, call his office to see how soon you can get in. Many veterinarians have technicians available to assess situations and answer questions to help you determine the seriousness of your dog's condition. If your regular veterinarian is not available or if you feel that it is an emergency, the best thing to do, if at all possible, is to call the emergency clinic and tell them what is going on and that you are on the way. This helps the staff prepare for your situation in advance so the veterinary team is ready to work on your dog or dogs when you get there. If you have further questions on what kinds of conditions are emergency situations, please ask your veterinarian.

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each of us love our bullies very much, I am sure, we are just nut cases. I suppose if you combine obsessive-compulsive with someone who decided to trade children for bulldogs...well, this is what you get, perfect nuts and very happy bulldogs. I am however proud to say that they do very well in our household and I am so happy, looking at Chester today, seeing him calm. He was a nut-job, basket-case when we got him, but who wouldn't be if they spent time in shelter, had ear surgeries that did not work, were in pain, owners neglected and abandoned him...
I trained him, spoiled him rotten and today he is one "nicely adjusted" nut-job, LOL. He is a momma's boy, needy and greedy but such a cutie you cannot help but love him. At times he gets rude but we correct it. Lily totally tolerates his youngster antics, even when he goes after her food--we do not let him do it, but he is so crazy on prednizone ( for auto-immune anemia, we're weaning him off it) and phenbarbitole (for seizures) that he would eat wall.
Yes, we love them, our lives evolve around them, that is true...they are family.

THE EXTREME...

any type of injury to the eye has to be dealt with right away
so that no damage to the vision occurs..

can sure tell you really love your dogs in your thread
such emotion
and a great story teller besides
you write with so much feeling
good luck with Chester and lily as well

we have what is called "special needs bullies"...or we are "special parents".
You know, with Lily we never had any serious problems until she got CHF, before then...her skin, coat, everything was perfect. We took such a good care of her since day one. She had bad degenerative arthritis which we treated since day we found out (adequan injections, supplements, massages, accupressure, you name it...) but that was it...so we sold our old house (two stories and bought one story so that she does not have to do stairs. Oh, and special beds to hang out in with orthopedic thick foam...
But Chester has so many issues that I am somewhat relieved he is ours. I am certain someone else would have his ashes on the mantel by now. Too much to take...
I vow to turn him into picture of health. I now cook for him and got quite a reaction from my husband (envy, LOL) when yesterday he opened five different containers (none of them for him) with fresh cooked fish including salmon, clam, haddock, cooked sweet potatoes, steamed vegetables, and for Lily separately whole roasted chicken (organic of course). They love me! They follow me everywhere thinking I am the best thing in the world of course. I said goodbye to dog food and issues "which is good or bad". If I run out of time, I may include some raw, but generally I am good to cook sweet potato in few minutes and steam veggies in a big batch, no problems. And I found out my Whole Food Market sells the whole roasted bird for $10 if I really am hard pressed for time. I just prefer to do it myself because I do not add any salt for Lily (CHF).
Lily most of her life ate dog food 50% and human food 50%. I could swear this is why she always had less issues with allergies and her coat is like a dream. With Chester, we gave him dog food because I was testing so many food allergies and now I am also going the same way as with Lily. I am convinced we will have a healthy bully in no time.
Now, give that beautiful Hooch man a big smooch from us and a big hug for the best bully momma from us

happened a number of times here and I have been right each of those times too. a vet visit was in order. one time that I thought that I needed a vet appointment for bella's drooling...turns out that is upset tummy to her medication she was on and it cleared up. I found that solution on the board.

I have had a number of times where I had an emergency though and NO vet that close. I managed to get a vet on the phone the one time I needed one asap. he talked me through it all.
I thought the info might help in a pinch it is needed.

I live 25 minutes to the vet here..
wish I lived next door to the vet..lol on occasion

are right. A lot of people would not go to an ER vet for one tiny drop of blood in diarrhea, but we did and it turned out Winnie had hemorrhagic gastroenteritis. We've also rushed to the vet for swelled up eyes from scratching, hives from an insect bite, breathing issues and vomiting that occurred about 4 times in an hour (pancreatitis).

taking a dog to the vet is the point that I was trying to get across
in some instances the dog needs to be seen
sometimes you have to act before you can even get the vet..

I had a boston that swelled up on vacation. I was 45 minutes away to the vet and she would have died in that time. I had the vet on the phone the whole time, he was out in a park working on a local bear of all things on his cell. he told what to give her and kept me on the line since her breathing was harboured badly.
all was well...........but very touchy and scary.
her face was out like a football
chortripilon adult strength is what we used.

this is the one time I had a medical emergency and the vet was not any help that far away.
hence thought the tread might help someone
but you are right
it is a huge huge subject

I will just print off these sheets and keep them to read over later..
lots of info on it

soo much great info on the net out there
thanks for your input Elaine
I will remember that

Just compiling a list of what to keep in your doggie cupboard, which has been done previously but not for a while, is a good subject but perhaps as a single thread...

Emergency medicine is a complicated subject and we can only write from our own experiences and in some instances, from some medical training but I (nor YOU) want to be the final decider on when a dog is "that ill" so we can only give guidelines. Much of the evaluation of "he's not acting normal" needs to be yours.

When I had a class (vet tech training) in Emergency Medicine, we were taught early on about A-B-C: A=airway=is the dog breathing with normal volume and is the pathway 'clear'? This ties into B=breathing=is the respiration and heart rate steady and normal (some variance for size/age of dog)? C=circulation=is the pulse rate checked at various locations on the dog 'normal', is he bleeding externally or suspected internally, also check soft tissue for paleness (gums, cheek, vulva are just some). I would also throw in suspected bloat here as a possible emergency.

If any of these were off, and especially if two of these were off, we were told it was a definite emergency.

BEGIN ARTICLE

Guideline and overview for dogs that overheat.

This is posted with the permission of the author Nate Baxter, DVM and is a guideline and overview for dogs that overheat. While it was written for working retrievers the information applies to any dog exerting itself in warm or very humid conditions.

Nate wrote:

. . . . .The first thing that needs to be understood is that dogs and people are different enough that most of the info cannot cross lines. I do not profess to know what the appropriate procedures for people other than what I learned in first aid.

Electrolyte replacement: Dogs do not lose enough electrolytes thru exercise to make a difference, but if the dog gets truly into heat stroke the physiology changes will make them necessary. BUT oral replacement at that point is futile, they need IV and lots of it.

Cooling: The point of evaporative cooling being the most efficient is correct. However, in a muggy environment, that will not help as much, so I do cool with the coldest water I can find and will use ice depending on the situation. The best way is to run water over the dog, so there is always fresh water in contact. When you immerse a dog in a tub, the water trapped in the hair coat will get warm next to the dog, and act as an insulator against the cool water and cooling stops. If you can run water over the dog and place it in front of a fan that is the best. Misting the dog with water will only help if you are in a dry environment or in front of a fan.

Just getting the dog wet in not the point, you want the water to be cool itself, or to evaporate.

For MOST situation all you will need to do is get the dog in a cooler environment, ie shade, or in the cab of the truck with the air conditioning on (driving around so the truck does not overheat and the AC is more efficient).

This past summer I was very concerned about my dogs getting too hot in the back of my black pickup with a black cap. Boy I wish I got another color 6 years ago.

When I had one dog I just pulled the wire crate out of the car and put it in some shade and hopefully a breeze. But having 2 dogs and running from one stake to another, that was not feasible. So I built a platform to put the wire crates on, this raises the dog up in the truck box where air flow better. Then I placed a 3 speed box fan in front blowing on the dogs with a foot of space to allow better airflow.

I purchased a power inverter that connects to the battery and allows the 3 speed fan to run from the truck power. It has an automatic feature that prevents it from draining the battery. When I turned that fan on medium I would find that the dogs where asleep, breathing slowly and appeared very relaxed and comfortable in a matter of 20 minutes or less, even on very hot muggy days.

Alcohol: {Rubbing Alcohol] I did not carry it but probably will next year. It is very effective at cooling due to the rapid evaporation. It should be used when other methods are not working, but do not hesitate to use it. Due to the thicker skin and rapid evaporation I do not worry about it being absorbed. Plus we recommend using rubbing alcohol, which is propylene alcohol, not ethyl, for those of you not aware. So do not try to drink it.

I purchased those cooling pads, but found that the dogs would not lay on them. I would hold them on the back of a dog that just worked to get a quick cool, but probably will not mess with them next summer. I also bought a pair of battery operated fans but found them pretty useless. Spend your money on the power inverter and get a real fan.

Watching temp: If you feel your dog is in danger of heat injury, check its temp and write it down. Keep checking the temp every 3 minutes. Don't forget to shake it down completely each time, sounds silly, but when are worried about your companion, things tend to get mixed up.


This is VERY IMPORTANT:
Once the temp STARTS to drop, STOP ALL COOLING EFFORTS. The cooling process will continue even though you have stopped. If the temp starts at 106.5, and then next time it drops to 105.8, stop cooling the dog, dry it off, and continue monitoring. You will be amazed how it continues to go down. If you do not stop until the temp is 102, the temp will drop on down to 99 or even lower. I cannot emphasis that point enough.


Limit water: When the dog is so heated that it is panting severely, only let it have a few laps of water. Water in the stomach does not cool the dog, you just need to keep the mouth wet so the panting is more effective. Do not worry about hydration until the temp has started down. A dog panting heavily taking in large amounts of water is a risk of bloat. Due to the heavy panting they will swallow air mix in a large amount of water they can bloat. Once the temp is going down and panting has slowed to more normal panting then allow water. The dog will rehydrate it self after temp is normal.

If the dog has a serious problem and even though you have gotten the temp normal, get the dog to a vet, as it can still need IV fluids and some medication. Also, a case of heat stroke can induce a case of hemorrhagic gastroenteritis (not parvo), with a ton of very bloody diarrhea and a lot of fluid and electrolyte loss. These cases need aggressive treatment.

Prevention: The best method of treatment is prevention. Learn to watch your dog, and see the changes in the size of the tongue, and how quickly it goes down. Learn your dogs response to the different environments, and be careful when you head south for an early season hunt test or trial. I have been to Nashville at the end of May the last 2 years, only 5 hours away, but the difference in temp and humidity did effect the dogs as they were used to more spring weather in Ohio. Try different things in training to help the dog cool and learn what works better.


Another very important point:
Do not swim your hot dog to cool it then put in put in a box/tight crate. Remember, evaporation can not take place in a tight space, and the box will turn into a sauna. Carry a stake out chain, and let the dog cool and dry before putting it up.